Annick Goutal - Les Absolus 1001 Ouds

Picture: Enjoying Coffee, Oueen Shirin of Persia (d 628)
Painter from the french school,
 first half of the 18th century
Wikimedia commons

1001 Ouds is the third fragrance in the Les Absolus line from Annick Goutal. It's created by Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal.1001 Ouds is inspired from the tales of the Arabian Nights.

1001 Ouds strarts with an smooth dry but in the same time creamy accord. The first impression of the fragrance is very original to me, it smells as something I'll describe as a creamy juniperberry. There is none of the sharpness from the usual interpretation of that note, just the woody-herbal character of the berry smoothened to a soft, fluffy texture. As there is no juniperberry among the notes I suppose it's the oud mixed with the birch, papyrus and rose which creates this inmpression, I can recognize this juniperberry like oud note from By Kilian Pure Oud where it's stronger and raw in its interpretation. As the dry down is approaching, the beautiful creamy, medium red rose, steps forward, fleeting in the fluffy but in the same time dry setting. The rose note slightly reminds me of the juicy rose in Le Galion La Rose, but not as big and radiating. There is a contrasting chilly aspect which is dry a bit like paper, probably the papyrus, combined with a soft, very light boozy almost applelike note, probably the myrrh, which has similarities with an accord in the great masculine Royal Vintage from M.Micallef. 1001 Ouds also feels royal, but it's to my nose is a feminne royalty.

As 1001 Oud dries down it becomes woodier and rosier but still preserves its excellent smoothness, it's a real comfort to wear this fragrance. It has not so much to do with the regular ouds, here the oud is one of the components interacting and not dominating over the other ingredients. This is not a "statementperfume" like many in the oud genre, this is pure, soft elegance. Maybe the name should be another as the many oudhaters which seems to be out there, at least in the perfumeforums could be scared away. But those should not fear, it's better to think of this as a woody oriental perfume and don't think of it as an oud. On the other hand I think the name is good as this perfume reveals that oud is an excellent ingredient and it could be presented in many shapes.

1001 Ouds is suitable to wear around the year, it has nuances that fit each season. The sillage is close and the longevity is for a day. A discrete, high quality fragrance, safe to wear in any occasion. Another winner from Annick Goutal and one of the best releases in 2015 IMO.

Rating: 5

Notes: Oud, papyrus, rose, pimento, birch, guaiac wood, myrrh

Van Cleef & Arpels - Un Air de First

Picture: Jasminum sambac 'Grand Duke of Tuscany'
Photo: Scott Zona (cc) some rights reserved, Wikimedia Commons

Un Air de First is a new interpretation by perfumer Nathalie Gracia-Cetto to celebrate the 35th anniversery of the first Van Cleef & Arpels fragence, the classic First created by Jean-Claude Ellena.

Un Air de First is a proper name for this fragrance, it is airier and cleaner than the original during the whole developement of the fragrance. It starts aldehydic, flowery, green but the flowers are fruity and bright compared to the soapy and heavier flowers of First. I also pervieve the flowers of Un Air de First as perdominantly clean and white (even the rose is white) wheras Firsts flowers are heavier and with a higher degree of yellow flowers. Pretty soon in the drydown, a note that almost smells like fresh tobacco appears in  Un Air de First. Galbanum is als glimpsing but not as noticable as in First. Later on the tobacco is lit and a clean note of cigarettesmoke appears accompanying the jasmine. The notemix is not at all dirty as in Etat Libre d'Orange Jasmine et Cigarettes but it's not as dry and subtle as in M.Micallef Royal Vintage, it's more round and fruity. Un Air de First continues to dry down in a lipsticky, aldehydic flowery manner and is underscored by a musky slight woody base.

Picture. Un Air de First
Photo: PR Van Cleef & Arpels (c)

Un Air de First has succeded to perserve the spirit of the original, just as Balmain with the new interpretation of Ivoire where the new version is fruitier and brighter than the original. The fact that the spirit of First is perserved is also proved by Mr Parfumistas comments about a " much too ladylike scent". I think Un Air de First is sort of contemporary ladylike and as it's very strong, one have to be careful with application, it is not airy=light. The sillage is great and as also the longevity, about 24h.

Rating: 3+

Notes: Galbanum, Peach, Fruity Notes, Jasmine, Rose, Green Notes, Vetiver, White Musk

Best of 2013

Picture: Summer evening in Stockholm Archipelago 2013
Photo: Mr Parfumista (c)

2013 was another year with a flood of releases, many good and well constructed but too close to other perfumes too really catch my attention. The fragrances of the best of list are such that immidiately caught my attention and a "wow" feeling appeared.

For Her: Le Parfum Couture Denis Durand pour M.Micallef Already during my first wearing of this dark rosy, retro, skanky perfume I knew this would be the perfume of the year to me and it made it to the end.

For Him: Royal Vintage from M.Micallef fresh mangled, exquisite, linen tablecloths worthy a the Royal table. Notes of a just lit cigarette with hints of a minimalistic dry jasmine complements.

For Both: Oumma by Stéphane Lucas Humbert 777 a runner up tested the weekend before Christmas. A fragrance in a class of its own, balsamic resins, rose and a smooth expression of saffron and precious woods.

Close runner up's/ Honorable mentions: Oriza L.Legrand Chypre Mousse, Neela Vermiere Cretations Mohur Extrait, Andy Tauer PHI Rose the Kandahar, Robert Piguet Rose Perfection, Puredistance Black, By Kilian Playing with the Devil, Oliver Durbano Lapis Philosophorum and Aedes de Venustas Iris Nazarena.

2013 apperantly was a good year for Martine Micallef and her house nose Jean-Claude Astier, releasing special and wearable fragrances that stands out to me and make my jaded nose a bit excitetd. The sampling of Oumma was pure luck, random choosing from a sachet of Aus Liebe zum Duft samples. About all the fragranes which almost made it (I'm also almost sure I've forgot to mention some interesting releases): They are all very good and I or Mr Parfumista are delighted to wear them.

Which fragrance is your best of 2013?

M.Micallef - Royal Vintage

Picture: Robert Comte de Montesquiou-Fézensac (1855-1921)
Painting by Giovanni Baldini (1842-1931)

Royal Vintage is a fragrance intended for men in the M.Micallef Exclusive line. Royal Vintage is created by the M.Micallef housenose Jean-Claude Astirer. The fragrance is presented in an exclusive bottle, designed by Martine Micallef. The review is written from impressions mediated by the, when it comes to fragrances, fussy Mr Parfumista who has performed the testings of Royal Vintage.

Royal Vintage starts familiar classy cologne notes, similar to Geoffery Beene Bowling Green but more delicate and smoother in structure. Then a soft but in the same time slight fizzy, pink peppercorn note appears giving sparkle to the blend. There is also a dry, almost papery note apperant in this stage, not as strong and intense as the papyrusnote in Gucci Pour Homme, which also appears in a sweeter and spicier context than the cool and clean papernote in Royal Vintage.

When reaching its heart, Royal Vintage smells like the image of a clean and freshly ironed shining white linen napkin and tablecloth where an elegant gentleman just had lit a fresh cigarette made of high quality tobbacco. This accord, probably it's the among the notes mentioned cypress that creates the clean linen impression and the soft and smooth leather the fresh cigarettenote, is wellbalanced and lasts during the whole drydown, slight deepening in the basenotes. Overall the compostion evokes the image of a dandy.

Picture: Royal Vintage by M.Micallef
Photo: PR Parfums M.Micallef

The sillage of Royal Vintage is medium, it's clearly present during the whole dry down, could not offend anyone in its understated elegance. The longevity is amzing for a fragrance of this transparent character, Mr Parfumista tested Royal Vintage during a whole day performing heavy physical activity and Royal Vintage were still clearly present after 12h+ and on cloth for days. After a day of officewearing it was still there 24h later. I have read some opinons that Royal Vintage is close to Creed Aventus which I can't comment about as I havn't smelled that one. I think Royal Vintage smells of itself and that it's an excellent scent.

Royal Vintage really deserves its name, with its understated elegance, its well balanced precense and longevity this would perfectly match (even if not dandy-like) my favourite royalty H.R.H Prince Daniel in his daily duties. Until the princely nose will detect this gem, Royal Vintage will serve under anything but royal circumstances in Mr Parfumistas office, because for once, he has found something he judge as full bottle worthy.

Update January 2015: Mr Parfumista is testing Creed Aventus and his conclusion is that the Creed, even if a good perfume, is sweeter and more "perfumery"/pungent than Royal Vintage. As Mr Parfumista comments: "If I haven't already known and owned the much more distinctive Micallef, I had probably considered Aventus",

Rating: 5

Notes: Bergamot, pink pepper, cypress, leather, patchouli, musk